I am in pain. my whole body aches. last night i could barely get myself out of bed to go to the bano. Each night, as I try to fall asleep in the sticky heat, it seems as if I have one less position to use because new body parts are always sore. Initially, when late at night a body part would be throbbing, i’d elevate it under a pile of pillows to keep the swelling down. At this point I need to elevate my entire body, so I’m not exactly sure how to do that. I have bruises. I have rashes. I have pulled muscles. I have flaps of skin torn off my toes and knees. I have bruised ribs and whenever I bend over to pick something up i have liquid pouring out of my sinuses. When I close my eyes I feel myself surging. My body lifting.Â Sometimes cartwheeling, sometimes i feel as if I’m being dragged by one ankle by a thundering monster.
No, this is no strange disease you get from eating pinto gallo in some greasy dive in Costa Rica. It’s what happens after 5 consecutive days of surfing as a total, 38 year old beginner. Sweet, beautiful, tropical surfing. I’m planning my next trip already.